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DIY biogas: how to make one at home?

DIY biogas: how to make one at home?


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It is really possible to create an implant DIY biogas?

The answer is positive but ... be careful: you will need a little practice and, probably, the supervision of someone expert. So, read this information carefully and then, before getting to work, complete your training as a plant creator biogas in the house more professionally!

Therefore, this in-depth analysis will not enter into the merits of gas production or what biogas can be used for, but is a basic introduction to the conditions necessary to create flammable biogas, encouraging you to learn more.

Environment

The first thing you need to create is the right environment, that is an airtight environment. An airtight container can be used as an anaerobic "digester", creating as a main difficulty the need to add elements without however allowing oxygen to enter your system. The most common method to create a continuous flow digester is the “teapot” shape, so much so that most of the biogas digesters that you find on the market today are some variations of this form of teapot.

Gas storage

Archaea, or bacteria that will allow you to obtain biogas, love water. Therefore, when loading a digester, it is necessary to take into account the water content in the material that is put into it. A head of lettuce, for example, may appear to be a very solid element, but it is actually 98% water. Dried rice is only 14% water. Regardless of the size of the digester, the "Rule of 40-50-10" should guide you in order to get the correct volume: in summary, you will have to worry about inserting 40% of material, filling the rest of the digester with water, except 10 % of air space.

Temperature

A good analogy to think about regarding the temperature and anaerobic digestion is that the temperature is like the "pedal" of the accelerator of your car. The higher you get on it, the faster the digester will convert the waste to gas. However, just like pressing the accelerator pedal, there are consequences. The hotter the digester is, the more fragile the environment in which the waste is decomposed and susceptible to an unexpected accident.

You can control the temperature in several ways. For example, in some countries it is customary to insert the digester directly underground, buried, with the construction normally larger than necessary. In this way they can be overloaded in the winter months to maintain a constant gas production. Other projects employ a greenhouse. More advanced systems integrate a heat exchanger, which can be heated with solar collectors. Regardless of your project, avoid using biogas or any other fuel to heat the digester.

Acidity

The neutral pH it is an important parameter in anaerobic digestion, as it is for aerobic composting. If the pH is measured at the inlet, it will be slightly lower than neutral - usually around 5.5 - since the added material is converted into acids. The pH is neutralized when these acids are converted to methane gas. When the liquid biofertilizer comes out of the digester, it should be 7. If the pH of the biofertilizer is lower than this, it is an indicator that the digester has been overfed and is in danger of "souring", or ceasing to function due to the low pH.

If the pH at the inlet falls below 5.5, it is necessary to add wood ash or lime to buffer the digester. An acidic digester has no bubble activity and, instead of producing gas, draws air inside. The upper part will be sucked tightly against the liquid surface and if a brewer's compensation chamber is used, the water in the compensation chamber will be sucked into the digester. Restarting a sour digester takes time, and in most cases it is easier to unload it and start over.

Biogas production

There biogas production is better at the same 25: 1 C: N ratio as aerobic composting. The reason that cow manure is by far the most common feedstock for biogas is that cow manure is naturally the perfect 25: 1 C: N ratio. Cow manure is an excellent raw material to start experimenting with biogas. Other waste must be combined as is a compost pile.

Read also: DIY rice glue

Conclusions

After these five steps, it is important to know that for the first 48 hours for a small digester or up to a couple of weeks for a larger system, the digester will only produce carbon dioxide (CO2). Carbon dioxide is naturally used in fire extinguishers, so much so that when a match is placed on the gas to be tested to verify its flammability, it will be blown away with an audible "hiss" and a wisp of black smoke.

As the biogas begins to ignite, the hissing and black smoke will disappear and the distinct "rotten egg" smell of hydrogen sulfide (H2S) will be smelled. This smell is the signal to start capturing your gas, as it is flammable or will soon be. This "CO2 phase" has led many people to abandon DIY projects that could have been flammable if they had waited a little longer!

We hope these little tips will entice you to learn more about making a DIY biogas plant. The material for technical insights, made by experts and enthusiasts, should not be missing with a quick online search!


Video: Free gas from the Water. How to make Free Lpg gas at home. petrol and Water. MH4 TECH (July 2022).


Comments:

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  2. Ashlin

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  6. Macon

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